New Haven is filled with old world coal-fired pizzerias that have been around since the 1930s, but this is a modern establishment using wood-fired ovens instead. They advertise “artisanal pizzas” here, which is a fancy way of saying “handmade, without machinery.” The specialty pizzas look amazing, really great toppings and interesting combinations; but I reviewed the gold medal pie here, a regular cheese pizza. You’ll notice some big time char, borderline burnt crust, which is a trademark of wood-fired pies. However, the dough is actually softer and less crispy than the New Haven coal-fired pizzas, which must have something to do with how hot the oven gets with wood as opposed to coal. Very nice melt and consistency with the cheese, terrific creaminess & flavor. But the ingredients that bolsters the score the most is the super spunky sauce. Zip, zest, tang & bang, the sauce is the standout star of the pie. In fact, if Pepe’s, Modern or Zuppardi’s had this sauce, all of those pizzas would rate in the 9s. While the non-crispy charred dough drags the rating down a bit, the sauce makes this place worth a try. It’s a great date spot with a new school vibe and very solid pizza. I might have to try a specialty pie the next time I’m here.
