Less is more.
So Frank Pepe's Apizza. I've had two pies from their Yonkers location: the Tomatoe Pie with Mozzarella and the Fresh Tomatoe Pie (July-Sep only, both 7.6s there)—I like this better than both.
Lemme back up a sec though, I had this right after Brewport in Bridgeport, CT. It's right off of I-95 like Pepe's. That was good. But it was a great pizza day when I got this and it was even *better*.
And you think, how could a pie with just sauce, olive oil, and grated pecorino be better than most pizza with mozzerella?
First, I'm a sauce guy. If you are too, you will love it's a lightly chunky and balanced between naturally sweet and acidic. That's perfect for me. It some how doesn't even need garlic, oregano, or basil and yet it's still good. Probably only a pinch of salt is in there.
Cheese? Perfectly accompanied the sauce, adding a bit of salt and hint of funk. You can barely see the hard grated pecorino on there but it's enough. And even though I took a takeaway cup of grated pecorino (plus oregano and garlic cups) I didn't need it.
Crust? As opposed to being thin like a crispy fresh pita, like Brewport, this was crispy yet had a rise to it while being thin. It's that right balance between crunchy and yet airy and pliable. Plus it's charred but not over charred.
I've had two other all sauce pies. One at Arthur Avenue Wood Fired and one at my favorite place near me, Pizzeria Baci's. This was easily better than the others and, frankly, blows them out of the water.
This is the way to do a tomato pie. Retire the rest.
