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ryan.rutherford
Opened in 2021 by owners Dante & Stephanie Cistulli who have had their eye on this spot since 2014 when it was Backstage Pizza. Most recently known as Barb’s Pizza, the couple bought this joint & named it after their eldest son, named for Zephyr Competition Team, an ode to Dante’s love of skateboarding. Unlike the abundant New Haven style pizza in the area, this pie is more of a thick & doughy gas oven New York style football pizza. The dough has a little more than medium thickness, with a taste & texture that is more consistent with a bread style, very similar to wood oven pizza dough. The undercarriage is firm & very sturdy but void of char & crisp, with the soft & pillowy crust containing a bit more crunch than the body of the dough. A marvelously melty mixture of mozzarella, the cheese is clearly a quality blend; a rather thinly spread amount in comparison to the thickness of the dough, with a mostly creamy consistency & above average taste, while holstering a minimal amount of manageable grease. Moderately savory & mildly sweet, the sauce possesses more of a bitter flavor from some dry oregano, which neutralizes the sweetness of the tomatoes. Not punching quite as hard as I would like, I can taste more of the dough than the flavors in the somewhat subtle sauce. Lacking seasoning & zest, the sauce isn’t bad but it’s missing that “wow factor.” All in all, this pizza is very good but also a bit of an acquired taste from the borderline sourdough vibes, which has never been my favorite. I prefer a thinner & crispier pie with a sweeter sauce that really sings; but if you like a thickish & doughy NY style football pizza, then this is right up your alley. This is a cool little spot that also serves intriguing grinders/sandwiches & hot dogs to go along with very solid pizza.
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